This article examines the disconnection between promises of labour rights made at the international level and their inaccessibility to workers at the local level. Going beyond the concept of a global ‘governance gap’, it draws on a political economy perspective and focuses on the intersecting and competing roles of different forms of capital and the state, in curtailing workers’ paths to remedy in the global apparel (garment) value chain. A longitudinal case study of a campaign by Turkish garment workers, seeking remedy for lost earnings and severance payments due factory closure and wage theft, is the focus for analysis. The workplace is conceptualised as a key ‘arena of disarticulation’ in the apparel value chain, central in simultaneously embedding and dis-embedding commitments by brands, the state and employers, such that even wages for work done may be denied to workers with relative impunity. The article considers to what extent promises made in abstraction at the international level can hope to guarantee conditions at workplace level.
AÇSHB (Aile, Çalışma ve Sosyal Hizmetler Bakanlığı) (2020) Sendikal İstatistikler, https://www.ailevecalisma.gov.tr/media/55118/2020_uyesayilari.pdf.
Anner, M. (2015a) Social downgrading and worker resistance in apparel global value chains, in K. Newsome, P. Taylor, J. Bair and A. Rainnie (eds) Putting Labour in its Place, Basingstoke: Palgrave MacMillan, pp 152–70.
Anner, M. (2015b) Labor control regimes and worker resistance in global supply chains, Labor History, 56(3): 292–307. doi: 10.1080/0023656X.2015.1042771
Anner, M. (2019) Predatory purchasing practices in global supply chains and the employment relations squeeze in the Indian garment export industry, International Labour Review, 158(4): 705–27. doi: 10.1111/ilr.12149
Anner, M. (2020) Abandoned? The impact of COVID-19 on workers and businesses at the bottom of global supply chains, PennState Center for Global Workers’ Rights, March, https://www.workersrights.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Abandoned-Penn-State-WRC-Report-March-27-2020.pdf.
Bagnardi, F., D’Onofrio, G. and Greco, L. (2020) The state in chains: public policies against adverse incorporation in southern Italian production networks, Globalizations. doi: 10.1080/14747731.2020.1849908.
Bair, J., Anner, M. and Blasi, J. (2020) The political economy of private and public regulation in post-Rana Plaza Bangladesh, Industrial and Labor Relations Review, 73(4): 969–94. doi: 10.1177/0019793920925424
Barrientos, S., Bianchi, L. and Berman, C. (2019) Gender and governance of global value chains: promoting the rights of women workers, International Labour Review, 158(4): 729–52. doi: 10.1111/ilr.12150
Bartley, T. (2011) Transnational governance as the layering of rules: intersections of public and private standards, Theoretical Inquiries in Law, 12(2): 517–42. doi: 10.2202/1565-3404.1278
Bartley, T. (2018a) Transnational Rules without Rights: Land, Labor, and Private Authority in the Global Economy, Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Bartley, T. (2018b) Transnational corporations and global governance, Annual Review of Sociology, 44(1): 145–65. doi: 10.1146/annurev-soc-060116-053540
Birelma, A. (2014) Ekmek ve Haysiyet Mücadelesi- Günümüz Türkiye’ sinde Üç İşçi Hareketinin Etnografisi, Istanbul: İletişim.
CCC (Clean Clothes Campaign) (2017) Zara, Next, Mango slammed for leaving workers without wages in Turkish factory, Online report, Clean Clothes Campaign, https://cleanclothes.org/news/2017/09/25/zara-next-mango-slammed-for-leaving-workers-without-wages-in-turkish-factory.
CCC (Clean Clothes Campaign) (2018) Bravo workers forced to take partial payments from Zara, Mango, Next, Online report, Clean Clothes Campaign, https://cleanclothes.org/news/2018/04/12/bravo-workers-forced-to-take-partial-payments-from-zara-mango-next.
CCC (Clean Clothes Campaign) Turkey (2019) Syrian workers in Turkey’s garment industry, Clean Clothes Campaign Turkey, Online report, http://www.temizgiysi.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/syrian-refugees-in-textile.pdf.
Çelik, A. (2015) The Wave of Strikes and Resistances of the Metal Workers of 2015 in Turkey, Centre for Policy and Research on Turkey (Research Turkey), 4(10): 21–37, London: Research Turkey.
Cerny, P.G. (1997) Paradoxes of the competition state: the dynamics of political globalization, Government and Opposition, 32(2): 251–74. doi: 10.1111/j.1477-7053.1997.tb00161.x
Chen, M.A. (2005) Rethinking the Informal Economy: Linkages with the Formal Economy and the Formal Regulatory Environment, Research Paper 2005/010, Helsinki: UNU-WIDER, https://www.wider.unu.edu/sites/default/files/rp2005-10.pdf.
Davies, S., Hammer, N., Williams, G., Raman, R., Ruppert, C.S. and Volynets, L. (2011) Labour standards and capacity in global subcontracting chains: evidence from a construction MNC, Industrial Relations Journal, 42(2): 124–38. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2338.2011.00620.x
Esbenshade, J. (2004) Monitoring Sweatshops: Workers, Consumers and the Global Apparel Industry, Philadelphia, PA: Temple University Press.
EC (European Commission) (2020) ‘Turkey 2020’: report accompanying the communication from the commission to the European parliament, the council, the European Economic and Social Committee and the Committee of the Regions, European Commission, Brussels, 6.10.2020 SWD(2020) 355, https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A52020SC0355&qid=1621942789137.
Froud, J., Sukhdev, J., Leaver, A. and Williams, K. (2006) Financialization and Strategy: Narrative and Numbers, Abingdon: Routledge.
Fütterer, M. and Lopez Ayala, T. (2018) Challenges for Organizing Along the Garment Value Chain: Experiences from the Union Network TIE Exchains, Studien, Berlin: Rosa Luxemburg Stiftung.
Gansemans, A., Louche, C. and D’Haese, M. (2021) Planting seeds for social dialogue: an institutional work perspective, British Journal of Industrial relations, 59(1): 84–113. doi: 10.1111/bjir.12523
Global Framework Agreement: IndustriALL and Inditex (2014) On the implementation of international labour standards throughout the supply Chain of Inditex, http://www.industriall-union.org/sites/default/files/uploads/documents/GFAs/signed_gfa_inditex_-_english.pdf.
Gülmez, M. (2013) Örgütlenme Özgürsüzlüğü cephesinde yeni bir Şey yok! Olacağı da yok!, Çalışma ve Toplum, 2(37): 13–40.
Hale, A. and Wills, J. (eds) (2005) Threads of Labour: Garment Industry Supply Chains from the Workers’ Perspective, Women Working Worldwide, Oxford: Blackwell Publishing.
Hammer, N. and Plugor, R. (2019) Disconnecting labour? The labour process in the UK fast fashion value chain, Work, Employment and Society, 33(6): 913–28. doi: 10.1177/0950017019847942
ILO (International Labour Office) (1998) ILO declaration on fundamental principles and rights at work and its follow-up, https://www.ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/---ed_norm/---declaration/documents/normativeinstrument/wcms_716594.pdf.
ILO (International Labour Office) (2015) Report of the Committee of Experts on the Application of Conventions and Recommendations, Report III (Part 1A), General Report and observations concerning particular countries, Geneva: ILO.
Jenkins, J. (2020) Struggle in the garment sector, Theory and Struggle, 121: 68–77. doi: 10.3828/ts.2020.9
Jenkins, J. and Blyton, P. (2017) In debt to the time-bank: the manipulation of working time in Indian garment factories and ‘working dead horse’, Work Employment and Society, 31(1): 90–105. doi: 10.1177/0950017016664679
Kuruvilla, S. (2021) Private Regulation of Labor Standards in Global Supply Chains: Problems, Progress and Prospects, Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press.
Law on Trade Unions and Collective Labour Agreements (2012) Official Journal, Turkey.
Levy, D.L. (2008) Political contestation in global production networks, Academy of Management Review, 33(4): 943–63. doi: 10.5465/amr.2008.34422006
Locke, R. (2013) The Promise and Limits of Private Power: Promoting Labor Standards in a Global Economy, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Locke, R.M., Rissing, B.A. and Pal, T. (2013) Complements or substitutes? Private goods, state regulation and the enforcement of labour standards in global supply chains, British Journal of Industrial Relations, 51(3): 519–52. doi: 10.1111/bjir.12003
Merk, J. (2014) The rise of tier 1 firms in the global garment industry: challenges for labour rights advocates, Oxford Development Studies, 42(2): 259–77. doi: 10.1080/13600818.2014.908177
Mezzadri, A. (2017) The Sweatshop Regime: Labouring Bodies, Exploitation, and Garments Made in India, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Morris, J., Jenkins, J. and Donaghey, J. (2021) Uneven development, uneven response: the relentless search for meaningful regulation of global value Chains, British Journal of Industrial Relations, 59(1): 3–24. doi: 10.1111/bjir.12573
Neidik, B. and Gereffi, G. (2006) Explaining Turkey’s emergence and sustained competitiveness as a full-package supplier of apparel, Environment and Planning A, 38(12): 2285–303. doi: 10.1068/a38127
Newsome, K., Taylor, P., Bair, J. and Rainnie, A. (eds) (2015) Putting Labour in its Place, Basingstoke: Palgrave MacMillan.
Nichols, T. and Suğur, N. (2004) Global Management, Local Labour: Turkish Workers and Modern Industry, Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan.
OECD (Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development) (nd) OECD Stat- Trade Union and Collective Bargaining, Paris: OECD, https://stats.oecd.org/Index.aspx?DataSetCode=TUD.
Özkızıltan, D. (2019) Authoritarian neoliberalism in AKP’s Turkey: an industrial relations perspective, Industrial Relations Journal, 50(3): 218–40.
Özveri, M. (2013) Türkiye’ de Toplu İş Sözleşmesi Yetki Sistemi ve Sendikasızlaştırma (1963–2009), Ankara: Ankara Üniversitesi Siyasal Bilgiler Fakültesi.
Pickles, J., Smith, A., Begg, R., Buček, M., Roukova, P. and R. Pástor (2016) Articulations of Capital: Global Production Networks and Regional Transformations, Chichester: Wiley Blackwell.
Rosen, E.R. (2002) Making Sweatshops: The Globalization of the U.S. Apparel Industry, Berkeley, CA: University of California Press.
Sadaba, T., SanMiguel, P. and Gargoles, P. (2019) Communication crisis in fashion: from the Rana Plaza tragedy to the Bravo Tekstil factory crisis, in N. Kalbaska, T. Sadaba, F. Cominelli and L. Cantoni (eds) Fashion Communication in the Digital Age, FACTUM 19, New York: Springer, pp 259–75.
Selwyn, B. (2017) The Struggle of Development, Cambridge: Polity Press.
Smith, A., Barbu, M., Campling, L., Harrison, J. and Richardson, B. (2018) Labor regimes, global production networks, and European union trade policy: labor standards and export production in the Moldovan clothing industry, Economic Geography, 94(5): 550–74. doi: 10.1080/00130095.2018.1434410
Tartanoglu, S. (2018) The voluntary precariat in the value chain: the hidden patterns of home-based garment production in Turkey, Competition & Change, 22(1): 23–40.
Thompson, P. (2003) Disconnected capitalism: or why employers can’t keep their side of the bargain, Work, Employment and Society, 17(2): 359–78. doi: 10.1177/0950017003017002007
Thompson, P. (2013) Financialization and the workplace: extending and applying the disconnected capitalism thesis, Work, Employment and Society, 27(3): 472–48. doi: 10.1177/0950017013479827
Thompson, P. and Vincent, S. (2010) Labour process theory and critical realism, in P. Thompson and C. Smith (eds) Working Life: Renewing Labour Process Analysis, Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan, pp 47–69.
Tokatlı, N. (2013) Toward a better understanding of the apparel industry: a critique of the upgrading literature, Journal of Economic Geography, 13(6): 993–1011. doi: 10.1093/jeg/lbs043
United Nations Office of the High Commissioner (2011) Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights Implementing the United Nations ‘Protect, Respect and Remedy’ Framework, New York and Geneva: United Nations, https://www.ohchr.org/documents/publications/guidingprinciplesbusinesshr_en.pdf.
WRC (Worker Rights Consortium) (2021) Fired, then Robbed: Fashion Brands’ Complicity in Wage Theft During Covid-19, Research Report, April, https://www.workersrights.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Fired-Then-Robbed.pdf.
Yıldırım, E. and Uçkan, B. (2009) Union Avoidance in Turkey: The State and Employers vs. Unions, 15th World Congress of the International Industrial Relations Association (IIRA), 24–27 August 2009, Sydney, Australia, http://www.ilera- directory.org/15thworldcongress/files/papers/Track_2/Thur_W5_UCKAN.pdf.
Yorgun, S. (2007) Türkiye’ de sendikal Örgütlenmenin güncel sorunları ve alternatif Öneriler, İş Güç İnsan Kaynakları ve Endüstri İlişkileri Dergisi, 9(2): 49–78.
Yücesan-Ö̈zdemir, G. (2012) Anadolu’ da çağrı merkezi çalışanları ve sendikal örgütlenme, Türk-İş, 396: 35–38.
May 2022 onwards | Past Year | Past 30 Days | |
---|---|---|---|
Abstract Views | 1 | 1 | 1 |
Full Text Views | 16 | 16 | 15 |
PDF Downloads | 13 | 13 | 10 |